Feeding Chickens for Health and the Best Eggs

Most people raising chickens for the first time over-complicate their needs…wasting money on fancy gadgets and equipment they don’t need. Backyard chicken farming is relatively simple. Your birds’ only needs are food, shelter, and water. While poultry waterers and feeders are nice, they aren’t necessary; anything deep enough to avoid tipping and the chickens walking through the feed and water works. Don’t solely rely on commercial chicken feed when feeding your chickens. Besides being the least healthy food, a green diet is better for them. Those beautiful, large orange yolks, synonymous with fresh eggs, don’t come from a grain-based diet. You need healthy chickens to eat a healthy diet to produce healthy chicken meat and eggs. I only feed my chickens commercial food during the winter if the natural source is scarce. Chickens are natural foragers, hunting insects, worms, and greens. Even if you can’t let your chickens forage on their own, you can supply them with the varied diet they need by feeding them leftover scraps from the kitchen. 5 Essential Dietary Ingredients Meat Protein – Protein is essential to egg production. I do not recommend feeding your chickens meat as this tends to turn your chickens cannibalistic. When chickens forage, they eat worms and bugs, which are high in protein. Raising free-range chickens is not always an option, especially in the winter. Because of this, I provide them with a culinary delight of various types of insects. I pick tomato worms in the summer and give them to my flock. They are crazy for these fat green worms and run around the pen, delightfully squealing. In the winter, I buy mealy worms and crickets. I also provide them with fish oil and fish meal throughout the year. They not only love it, but it’s also good for them. Grass and Hay – I know this sounds strange, but believe me, it’s a win-win situation. I have a large penfor my small flock and my compost pile in one corner. Why do the backbreaking work of turning your compost? It takes almost a year before you can use the compost this way. With chickens, your compost will be ready in about 4-6 months, and your fertilizer will be mixed in. Chickens make fast workof a compost pile, plus it’s good for them. Dried whole Corn and Grains – I use this sparingly, but it is an excellent supplement to their diet and contributes to the richness of the yolk. Greens – The secret to nutrient-rich, delicious eggs is greens. This includes lettuce, beet greens, kale, or whatever green scraps you have in your kitchen. I’m a dumpster diver, so whenever I see the markets and stores throwing away vegetables, I gather them for my girls. I also beg scraps from my neighbors; I’m known as the “vegetable bag lady.” Calcium—Calcium is essential for chicken health and egg quality. No…I don’t put calcium pills down their throats; I feed them eggshells. If you talk to other backyard chicken farmers, you will find many different opinions about this. However, everyone agrees that laying hens need lots of calcium. A lack of calcium is terrible for your hens and causes thin-shell eggs. Water – I find it interesting that what is the most critical feeding aspect for a flock is rarely discussed. You can provide your chickens with all the high-priced, fancy food you want, but if enough fresh water is unavailable, your chickens won’t eat. This results in egg production loss since half the egg is made of water. Make sure fresh water is always available. In the winter, place water inside the coop to avoid freezing, and increase your water monitoring in the summer. Birds quickly dehydrate without enough water. Many people will tell you grit is a necessary part of your chicken’s diet. We don’t buy grit because the chickens get all they need from the soil. If you want to feed your chickens grit, go ahead, but it isn’t necessary. What better way to use fresh eggs than in our Farm Fresh Breakfast Burrito? Stuffed full of fresh eggs, beans, and gooey cheese, this delicious dish will please the entire family. Feeding Your Hens Eggshells Because your hens use a lot of calcium to lay eggs, it’s important to add calcium to their diet. Most local and online feed stores carry oyster shell as a calcium supplement. But, if you’re like me, you prefer sustainable living, which includes caring for your chickens naturally. This is why I use eggshells instead of buying calcium supplements. Feeding chickens eggshells is a practice dating back a few hundred years. Most premixed feed rations contain added calcium. However, if much of their food is table scraps and foraging finds, then youneed to add calcium to their diet. Some people fear feeding their flock eggshells will turn them into egg eaters. In my 20+ years of raising chickens, I’ve only had two egg eaters that I can remember, and I don’t think it was because of feeding them eggshells. If that were true, all my hens would be egg eaters. Usually, chickens eat their eggs because they lack calcium. But, as a disclaimer, anything is possible, and some chickens may have the “mad egg-eating” disease. However, I think that is unlikely. The feeding process is as simple as tossing the used shells in your scrap bucket with their other goodies. I prefer a different method, but it’s whatever works best for you. My process: I collect the shells as I use the eggs, smashing them down and storing them in a bucket I leave in the pantry. Once the bucket is halfway full, I spread the half-crushed shells on a baking sheet and bake at 350° F for 8 minutes. While baking kills any lingering bacteria, I bake the shells because toasting them dries out the membrane, making them easier to crush into tiny pieces. If I’m in a hurry, I skip this step. Once cooled, crush the toasted shells into tiny
10 Most Asked Chicken Questions

I love talking about our chickens. Let’s face it: chickens are essential for farm-fresh eggs and are interesting and fun. Lately, I’ve noticed more interest in hearing about the crazy antics of my chickens. They especially love Bruno, our attack rooster, named after judge Bruno on Dancing with the Stars for his “colorful and loud” personality. Sadly, Bruno is no longer with us, but his stories live on. We couldn’t ask for better security patrol; the neighborhood dogs still don’t try to dig under our fence.Many people who love our stories are raising their own backyard flock. It’s not just the funny stories driving more urban adventurers into backyard chicken farming. The healthy benefit of eating eggs from their own hens and living a more humane lifestyle is also a driving reason. Most people raising chickens do intensive research into the positives and negatives of being a backyard chicken farmer. Unfortunately, many never try because of the misplaced belief that chickens are strictly farm animals, needing lots of space, feed, and supplies not readily available. In reality, just about any backyard will do; if it’s big enough for a dog, it’s big enough for chickens. As for the supplies, if you don’t have a farm supply store near you, most poultry supplies, including the chicken coop and food, are available to order online, 24 hours a day. Before you decide to welcome these fun and fascinating animals into your yard, there is some general knowledge needed for becoming a backyard chicken farmer. There are two experts in the poultry world, with books I highly recommend: Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens by Gail Damerow and The Chicken Health Handbook by Gail Damerow and Jeanne Smith DVM. Both books are a must for any backyard chicken farmer. Here are the top 10 chicken questions I get asked most often. 1. Do you need a rooster for the hens to lay eggs? Answer: No. This is the biggest misconception about chickens. A rooster is never necessary for your hens to lay eggs. If you want chicks, you need a rooster to fertilize the eggs, but the girls don’t need the boys to produce those yummy fresh eggs. 2. How many eggs will my chickens lay, and how often? Answer: This depends on several reasons. First is the breed of the chicken. Some hens are bred for egg production, and if the chickens are healthy, they may lay an egg daily. However, this is not the norm, and you can usually expect 4-5 eggs per chicken each week or one egg every two days. A good rule of thumb is that three hens will give you two eggs daily. The hen’s age is another reason. Most hens start laying at 4-6 months of age, with their first year being the most productive, with the egg amount decreasing each year after that. Finally, the seasons have a significant impact on egg production. During the winter, when there are fewer daylight hours, the number of eggs decreases drastically, while the summer months are more productive. 3. How long do chickens live? Answer: When shielded from predators, many standard chicken breeds are hardy animals and have a life expectancy of 8 to 15 years. However, it is rare that a chicken lives for 15 years. 4. How much care do chickens need? Answer: Chickens are low maintenance, making them an ideal pet. With proper housing, chickens are easier to care for than dogs and have minimal requirements. 5. How much do chickens cost and where can I get them? Answer: Baby chicks cost $3-$5 each, females being on the higher end of the scale while the fancy breeds are more. If you want grown hens, you will have to source them locally. Grown hens average between $20 and $50 each. You can get baby chicks at your local feed store or order them online. One of my favorite places to order baby chicks is the Cackle Hatchery. They have the largest selection of chicks to choose from, and I have always received healthy, beautiful baby chicks from them. I believe you can’t go wrong with this company. 6. What do I need for my new chicks? Answer: Your new chicks must stay warm and cared for until after the first four weeks. A brooder with a single infrared lamp is the best and most economical choice. Use a thermometer to keep the area a constant at 95° F. Use an inexpensive, 18” high corrugated paper chick corral for the pen. After 4-5 weeks, your chicks are ready to roam their new outside enclosure. As an Amazon Associate, I earn commission from qualifying purchases which helps with website upkeep. 7. When will my hens start laying? Answer: Normally, your hens start laying between 5 and 6 months of age and based on the breed, they will lay roughly 200 to 300 eggs a year. My favorite layers are Rhode Island Reds and the Buff Orpington for their wonderful brown eggs. The White Leghorns are prolific layers as well, laying large white eggs. For my pick of the top 5 egg layers, see the post Best Laying Hen Breeds. 8. Which are healthier and tastier, brown eggs or white eggs? Answer: Another frequent question I hear. The egg color makes no difference in taste or health benefits. However, what you feed your chickens and how they are kept has a big effect on the taste and health benefits of eggs. Research proves that if your chickens roam freely in your yard, your eggs are higher in Omega-3 fatty acids and lower in cholesterol. Even if your chickens can’t roam free, the eggs are still healthier and better tasting than store bought eggs. 9. Does having chickens save me money? Answer: This is a big, resounding No. Some people decide to raise chickens for the perceived money savings. There are many benefits to having your own chickens, but saving money is not one of them. Considering the feed, water,
Heritage Chicken Breeds
Heritage Chicken Breeds History Chickens and their eggs are a main part of the American diet. Since making their first appearance with Spanish explorers we’ve seen breeds developed specifically for enhanced meat and egg production. In 1873, the American Poultry Association published chicken breeds defined by the Standard of Perfection. The standard breeds defined adapted easily to production outdoors, in different climates. These early birds, or Heritage Chickens, were long-lived, hearty breeds with their reproduction a protein source for America’s growing population until the middle 1900’s. When chickens became industrialized between 1940 and 1960, the Heritage breeds were less prominent. Hybrid breeds, with their ready from chick to table in 8 weeks, became dominant to satisfy public demand. Today, many Heritage breeds face extinction with more than 3 dozen on the Livestock Conservancy’s endangered list. Heritage Chicken Breeds Standards The Livestock Conservancy issues strict guidelines for breeds defined and marketed as Heritage Chickens and they must meet all set forth standards to qualify. A Heritage Breed comes from an American Poultry Association Standard Breed, both parent and grandparent stock. Naturally mated through breed pairs of both parent and grandparent. Genetic ability for a long and vigorous life, thriving in pasture-based production. Heritage Chickens must have a slow growth rate, with market weight taking a minimum of 16 weeks. More of What Makes Heritage Chicken Breeds Heritage Chicken guidelines also state labels must include the breed name and variety. This rule includes terms like old-time, antique, heirloom, and old-fashioned—all synonymous with Heritage Chickens. Chickens hatched from Heritage Eggs must come from Heritage Standard Breeds recognized by the American Poultry Association and established before the mid-20th century. 15 Better Known Heritage Chicken Breeds
How to Roast a Chicken – The Better Way

Roast a Chicken – The Better Way The Backyard Chicken Farmer Recipe Corner wouldn’t be complete without instructions for how to roast a chicken the better way. Or what I consider the better way. I learned how to roast chicken from my grandmother, who lived most of her life on my grandfather’s chicken farm. This was a small local farm where all the animals were cared for and raised humanely, unlike the huge commercial farms today. We always had fresh eggs and chickens raised organically, without synthetic growth hormones and antibiotics. Chicken and fresh eggs were a staple cooking ingredient on the farm, but my all out favorite dish was the Sunday roast chicken dinner. That golden, crusty delicious goodness was a family tradition handed down for generations. To this day, I continue the tradition and follow Grandma’s most important instruction: “Keep it simple, follow my instructions exactly, and your family won’t want anyone else’s roast chicken.” Boy was she right. What Tools You Need to Roast a Chicken There are 3 must have items to roast a better chicken. Without these tools, your chicken isn’t going to turn out the way it’s supposed to. Roasting Rack Roasting Pan (large enough to hold roasting rack) Cooking Twine (use twine made for cooking) When choosing a roasting pan and rack, pick the best you can afford. If you can spend the money for a better set, you will be glad you did. Calphalon Roasting Set I use the set by Calphalon. It is tri-ply stainless steel with a non-stick rack and provides great even heating. The roasting pan is a workhorse. Just make sure to follow the instructions when using it. Let’s Start Roasting Let chicken set at room temperature for 45 minutes to an hour before cooking. Putting chicken straight from the refrigerator to the oven toughens the meat and adds considerable time to the cooking. Remove giblets, if any, from chicken cavity. Preheat your oven to 450° F. Never wash your chicken. Whether you buy your meat from the butcher or you process your own, your chicken was washed before packaging, or at a cleaning station similar to what we use when butchering. That initial wash is all you need. For properly cooked chicken, your meat comes to 165° F which kills any bacteria or germs. Washing chicken in your kitchen spreads germs to the sink, countertops, utensils, and yourself, so avoid washing or rinsing your chicken. Thoroughly dry your chicken, inside and out. Start by patting the outside of the chicken with 2 or 3 paper towels, making sure you get as much moisture as possible off the meat, then discard towels. With 2 or 3 clean paper towels, dry out the chicken cavity. This step is essential for a properly roasted bird. By not removing as much moisture as possible from the inside and outside of the chicken, creates steam which dries out your chicken. Sprinkle kosher salt and ground black pepper inside the chicken cavity, about a ½ teaspoon of each. Take a sprig of fresh rosemary, about 3 inches long, cut in half, and add to the cavity. I occasionally add 1 or 2 cloves of garlic to the cavity, but usually I just use salt, pepper, and rosemary (I like rosemary in just about everything). You can put anything you like in the cavity, but I believe the simpler, the better. Now your chicken is ready to truss. Trussing is not necessary but it helps promote even cooking, making a better roast chicken. Next time I roast a chicken, I plan to take pictures of each step of the trussing, but for now I hopefully can give instructions in an easy to understand way. You need some cooking twine. I buy mine in a 500 foot cone which costs about $5.00. Be sure your twine is specifically made for cooking. 500 Foot Cone of Cooking Twine Lay your chicken on a cutting board or baking sheet with legs facing away from you and the breast side up. Place twine underneath the tail, making sure the twine is centered. Bring twine up and around legs, near the end, cross the ends of the twine and loop back under legs and pull the string tight to bring the legs close together. Keeping hold of the string ends, turn the chicken over, bring the twine around the sides of the chicken. Tuck in the wings and pull twine tight at the neck and secure using a butcher’s knot by looping the string through the knot twice. Tighten twine and cut the loose ends off. Here is a video made by Ronnie Woo. He does an excellent job of showing how to truss a chicken with and without kitchen string. I recommend the kitchen string method since the chicken can pull apart while cooking. Flip chicken back over and sprinkle with salt** and pepper, making sure to season entire chicken. **For salting the outside of the chicken, you need ¾ teaspoon of salt per pound. For a 4 pound chicken, you need 3 teaspoons of salt. I know this sounds like a lot, but trust me, it turns out great. Use pepper to taste. I normally use 1-2 teaspoons of ground black pepper. Do not pour salt over the chicken. Add the 3 teaspoons of salt and pepper to a small bowl and sprinkle salt and pepper over chicken using your fingers. You want to make sure the chicken is evenly coated. Place roasting rack in baking pan and lay chicken on rack, breast side up. I highly recommend using a roasting rack for even cooking and to prevent chicken from sticking to the pan. Place chicken on center rack of hot oven and cook for 50 to 60 minutes or until internal temperature at thickest part is 165° F. Thickest part of the chicken is the junction between the breast and thigh. Do not overcook as this will cause your chicken to dry out and lose flavor. There is no need to
My Hens Aren’t Laying

The most common reason people give for becoming backyard chicken farmers is the eggs. With growing concern over what goes into our food supply and some of the abhorrent conditions on factory farms, people are taking back control of their food production
Two Faces of Raising Chickens
Raising farm animals like chickens are not so common in citified places. But many people just want to have a feel of the suburban life and recreate this by having their small chicken farms in their backyards.